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Archive for August, 2009

Aug
29

About five hours north of San Francisco lies Lassen Volcanic National Park. In a state that’s full of world-famous destinations for enjoying the great outdoors (Yosemite National Park, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park, Joshua Tree National Monument and more), Lassen tends to get overlooked. If you’re planning a trip there, this is to your advantage.

Last weekend, we spent three great days camping at Summit Lake South—right in the heart of Lassen. [View and/or copy and personalize our Lassen trip plan here]  Summit Lake South is one of a dozen campgrounds administered by the National Park Service (NPS). Our campsite came equipped with a bear box, firepit and picnic table. There is potable water available throughout the campground, but no flush toilets. If that’s an important “luxury,” you’ll find them at Summit Lake North—a quarter of a mile up the road.

We found Summit Lake South to be a great place to camp as a family. There were other families around, which always takes some pressure off the parents. The kids met other children quickly and entertained themselves tracking chipmunks, exploring the meadow and throwing rocks into the water. The lake provided a welcome respite after morning hikes and we all enjoyed a dip into its cool, clear waters.

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Summit Lake South                    Kevin Fliess 2009

Lassen is a comparatively small park, which makes it possible to see and do a lot in weekend. The highlights of the park include an ascent of 10,500-foot Lassen Peak, a hike to the geothermally active region known as Bumpass Hell or the Sulfur Works, or a jaunt to one of the dozen or so alpine lakes.

Since we were traveling with two young kids—ages 4 and 6—we tackled hikes that were rated easy to moderate. The Kings Creek Falls trail took us down a steep ravine past a series of spectacular cascades. Note to parents: Take the horse trail route down and the creekside trail up. We did it the other way around and wouldn’t recommend it. The hike follows the creek almost the entire way and offers ample opportunities for a quick dip of the toes.

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Cascades at Kings Creek Falls     Kevin Fliess 2009

The hike to Bumpass Hell was really spectacular with views of all the park’s tallest peaks visible throughout the journey. Bumpass Hell is probably the most interesting part of the park. It’s a geothermally active area that reeks of rotten eggs and features fumaroles (big steam vents blasting super-heated water vapor); bubbling mud pots; and streams of mineral rich, near-boiling water.)

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Bumpass Hell                         Kevin Fliess 2009

If you want a great workout and million-dollar views, hike the signature mountain in the park—Lassen Peak. According to the NPS: “On May 22, 1915, an explosive eruption at Lassen Peak, the southernmost active volcano in the Cascade Range, devastated nearby areas and rained volcanic ash as far away as 200 miles to the east. This explosion was the most powerful in a 1914-17 series of eruptions that were the last to occur in the Cascades before the 1980 eruption of Mt. St. Helens. Lassen Peak is the largest of a group of more than 30 volcanic domes erupted over the past 300,000 years in Lassen Volcanic National Park.”

It’s a steep 2.5-mile trail up with 2,000 feet of elevation gain. Note: The final mile of the trail is closed for the season for repairs. At the top you’ll find a permament snow field and will be rewarded with 360 views of the northern Sierras and southern Cascades. On most days, Mt. Shasta is clearly visible.

Don’t overlook this great Western park. It’s not much farther from San Francisco than Yosemite and has a fraction of the summer crowds. It was our second trip to Lassen, and we will definitely go back.

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Aug
27

If you’re planning an exciting, one-of-a-kind vacation, why stay in a conventional accommodation? The world is filled with hotels, motels and hostels that can add a much-needed sense of adventure to your trip. From underwater hotels to piles of hay, check out some of world’s most interesting places to lay your head.

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Hôtel de Glace. Photo: lander2006

Jules Undersea Lodge

Jules Undersea Lodge in Key Largo, Fla., provides its guests with the opportunity to scuba dive 21 feet down to the hotel and enjoy a night watching angelfish, barracuda, snapper and all sorts of underwater life swim past the 42-inch windows. Situated in a tropical mangrove habitat, this eccentric accommodation doesn’t lack in traditional amenities such as a shower, a fully stocked kitchen, a refrigerator and microwave, books, TV and movies.

For more information, visit www.jul.com.

Zum Alten Marstall

This refurbished historical building situated at the foot of castle Burg Guttenberg is just one example of the newest lodging craze overtaking Europe—heuhotels, or “hay hotels.” At Zum Alten Marstall in Germany, you can choose to stay in a traditional room with the option of hay-filled or feather-filled pillows, or bring your sleeping bag and sleep on a pile of hay in the barn with up to 60 other guests.

For more information, visit www.heuhotel.cc.

Hôtel de Glace

Built completely out of ice and snow, Hôtel de Glace in in Québec, Canada is rebuilt entirely every year. The temperature inside the hotel remains between 26 and 23 degrees Fahrenheit, so make sure to bring a lot of warm clothes. Stay in a theme suite or book a room with a fireplace if you’re especially sensitive to the cold. Make sure you warm up with a stiff drink at the Ice Bar before you go to sleep on a solid ice bed—but don’t worry, an artic sleeping bag will be delivered to your room.

For more information, visit www.icehotel-canada.com.

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Jumbo Hostel. Photo: Jumbo Hostel

Jumbo Hostel

Even for travelers who have a fear of flying, boarding this 747 jumbo jet won’t cause you to cower in fear—it doesn’t take off. Jumbo Hostel in Arlanda, Sweden is actually a 1976 vintage plane with 25 rooms and 85 beds. If you didn’t think this hotel could get any more offbeat, book the luxury suite that’s located in the cockpit.

For more information, visit www.jumbohostel.com.

Art Hotel Atelier sul Mare

Every room is a work of art at Art Hotel Atelier Sul Mare in Italy. This hotel-museum boats 40 rooms, 20 of them art rooms uniquely decorated by international artists. The hotel encourages guests to switch rooms every night in order to get the most out of their stay. Rooms with names like Mystery for the Moon and The Mouth of Truth provide the backdrop to an inspirational and moving vacation.

For more information, visit www.ateliersulmare.it.

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Aug
26

You don’t have the time. You don’t have the money. The recession has got you down. The litany of excuses on why golfers hesitate taking a golf getaway these days is seemingly inexhaustible.

My advice: Start planning your next golf getaway now.

Maybe these words by golf great Ben Hogan will get you going. “As you walk down the fairway of life you must smell the roses, for you only get to play one round,” said Hogan.

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Photo by Ed Schmidt Jr.

So, how do you start the planning process?

First, answer these questions:

  • Whom should I go with?
  • What is my budget?
  • When is the best time to go?
  • Where have I always wanted to tee up?
  • How can I get the best rates?
  • What type of courses do I like to play?
  • What type of experience do I want in terms of other resort amenities?
  • Do I want to walk or ride a cart?
  • Do I want a resort with caddies?
  • Do I want to visit a golf destination with a variety of courses or a secluded resort?
  • Do I want to drive or fly?
  • Should I use a golf tour operator?

Obviously, the previous list is a short one just to get you started. No doubt, other questions will come to mind.

The most important component in designing a successful golf getaway is determining the type of trip theme you want to execute. Are you seeking a romantic getaway with your spouse where golf is just one of many activities you’ll pursue, or do you want a trip with your golf buddies where you’ll chase the white dimpled ball from sunrise to sundown and throw down a few brewskis afterward? Other getaway themes include family trips, where you play golf while your spouse and kids enjoy other resort activities; a golf instruction getaway, where you attend a resort golf school for an intense, multi-day program to upgrade your skill level; a walking-only golf experience at a resort that features a caddie program; and a budget trip, when the sole concern is saving money.

If the entire planning process proves to be too time-consuming and confusing, I suggest contacting a tour operator that specializes in golf excursions. Some of the best I’ve worked with previously, include: Haversham & Baker, Golfpac, PerryGolf and Myrtle Beach Golf Packages.

For more golf travel tips, check out http://www.thegolftravelguru.blogspot.com.

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Aug
18

What’s the safest, most reliable way to get around a developing nation like Guatemala? That was my question this past June when I traveled to the Central American country with two friends. The answer, to my surprise: there are a variety of exciting ways!

Guatemala’s transportation infrastructure is well maintained and expansive. You can take a Greyhound-style bus to just about anywhere along the main arterial routes. We took a six-hour bus ride from Guatemala City to the Caribbean coast for about 65Q (US $8) and experienced only very brief stops, comfortable seats and on-board Spanish-dubbed movies.

For long-distance travel, choose one of several bus lines. Two of the best: Litegua and Línea Dorada.

Another common and safe way that visitors choose to travel is via private shuttle, available to book through all hotels and hostels. Fare is generally more expensive, but you’ll get curbside drop-off and a faster ride (US $12 to $15).

(Important Safety Note: Taking the municipal buses within Guatemala City is absolutely to be avoided. Robbings and murders of bus drivers have been rampant in recent months and years. Take a safe, metered taxi for travel around the capital, and have the address of your destination ready to give to the driver.)

Other fun, cheap ways to travel in Guatemala:

  • Chicken bus: These old school buses from the United States are transformed in Guatemala, painted in bright colors, given names like “Rosita,” and are packed with way too many people and, more often than not, chickens. Great for short-distance travel between towns. Rates vary depending on how far you’re going (15Q to 35Q in general). Note: Hold tight to your belongings! Pickpocketing is common.

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  • Tuk Tuk: Small, golf-cart-style cars that seat three people in the back, and get to a maximum speed of 50 miles per hour. Negotiate your price before you ride—be aggressive!

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  • Lancha: There are many lakes and rivers in Guatemala, and traveling between the watery communities often requires taking this exhilarating, speedboat ride, which also offers a fresh view of your surroundings. Extranjeros (foreigners) are usually charged more, but try to barter your fare down.
  • Hitchhike: It may sound like poor advice, but really, it’s a common form of transportation in Guatemala. Drivers will often pull over and simply ask if you need a ride. When I hitchhiked, I was traveling with my girlfriends and four people we’d befriended at our hostel, and felt totally safe. The story: We were waiting for a chicken bus to come along to take us to a sightseeing spot several miles up the road, but a giant flatbed semi truck came along first, so we flagged it down. We hopped in the back, and each grabbed hold of one of several stout wooden posts that stuck up around the truck’s edge, and went barreling down the dirt road to our destination. Best hitchhiking experience—ever.

Have you ever traveled within Guatemala or elsewhere in Central America? Please share your experiences.

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Aug
15

For the past three years, I have taken an annual mother-daughter trip to Switzerland to spend time with family members that we have in the canton of Ticino near Locarno. Ticino is an incredible summer destination, known for its incredible mountainous geography and one of Europe’s largest film festivals—the Locarno Film Festival.

However, one fun film fact is that Ticino is also home to the filming location of what was dubbed by one poll to be the “best movie stunt of all time.” The Verzasca Dam in the Verzasca Valley is the 25th largest dam in the world, and in 1995 was the filming location of the opening scene of GoldenEye, in which James Bond (played by Pierce Brosnan) bungee jumps from what is supposedly the Arkangel Chemical Weapons Facility in the Soviet Union. Nowadays, thrill-seekers from all over the globe flock to the dam so they, too, can bungee jump like James Bond.

My family mentioned taking a trip to Verzasca Valley for Switzerland’s National Day, and I secretly made a promise to myself, that as long as the line to bungee jump wasn’t terribly long, I would have to make the plunge. I immediately regretted my decision once I saw the massive Verzasca Dam, looming in the distance on my approach into the valley.

At the top of the dam, the area was packed with young adults waiting their turn for the thrill of a lifetime. “If they can do it,” I told myself, “so can I.” I marched over to the trailer used as an office, paid the 225 CHF (about US$235), asked for a release form and began to sign my life away.

The company that operates the bungee jump has the operation down like clockwork, and in less than an hour more than a dozen jumpers had jumped. Soon, the time had come. With my bare feet hanging slightly off the edge of the platform, I took a big gulp, let out a scream and began the harrowing seven-second, 220-meter descent alongside a giant wall of concrete.

Now, I can proudly say, “I jumped like James Bond.” For other ways to be just like everybody’s favorite international spy, check out our TravelMuse article, “Be Like Bond, James Bond.” Or, leave your suggestions about other ways to be like 007.

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