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Archive for October, 2009

Oct
28

Fall comes to the Mid-Atlantic and southeast a littler later than the New England states, so there’s still time to check out autumn color in these warmer regions. One of the best places for leaf peeping is along the incredibly scenic Blue Ridge Parkway, the 470-mile roadway that connects Shenandoah National Park in Virginia with the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina and Tennessee. The Blue Ridge Parkway snakes through mountaintop wilderness that displays more than 100 species of trees, making this expanse of asphalt one of the loveliest in the country when the leaves begin to fall.

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Photo: Courtesy Asheville Convention and Visitor’s Bureau.

The Parkway gets an estimated 1.5 million visitors during the month of October, which typically marks the peak of the color-changing season. If you visit during the last two weeks of October and the first week of November (especially on weekends), expect serious roadway congestion. But don’t let that dissuade you. With scenery this lovely, there’s no reason to rush: Follow the guiding principle of the park: “drive awhile and stop awhile.” There are numerous roadside pullouts that offer gorgeous vantage points, and many link to trails and picnic grounds. And if you’re willing to leave your auto behind and hike a quarter of a mile or so, it is easy enough to find solitude, even on the busiest Sunday afternoon.

My family and I like to arrive early (early!) in the morning, generally before sunrise, and hit the Parkway before the worst of the traffic. In years past we’ve driven for as long as two hours after daylight before we saw another car. In addition to helping us beat the crowds, we’ve found that morning light makes for stunning photographs; this is also the best time of the day to see wildlife, including white-tail deer and black bears.

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Photo: Courtesy Asheville Convention and Visitor’s Bureau.

If the traffic along the Parkway slows down too much for you, consider an aerial tour. Asheville Hot Air Balloons out of Asheville, North Carolina, offers exhilarating trips year-round. Routes vary depending on air currents, but expect to see spectacular views above the mountains of the nearby Pisgah National Forest.

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Oct
26

In addition to Singapore, which I wrote about on Friday, Chicago is another great dining destination—I’m not saying that merely because it’s my hometown. You can get not only fantastic casual (pizza, sausages), ethnic (Mexican, Thai), and traditional (steakhouse, diner) meals there, but also some of the best fine-dining in the country, from the legendary Charlie Trotter (Charlie Trotter’s) to the innovative Grant Achatz (Alinea).

On my recent return visit, there were three new places both friends and strangers consistently mentioned: Xoco, Terzo Piano and Nightwood.

Xoco, 449 N. Clark St. (enter on Illinois), 312-334-3688, www.xocochicago.com

Xoco is the latest establishment from one of Chicago’s most famous chefs, Rick Bayless. It opened on Sept. 8, and the lines have been out the door ever since. Bayless made a name for himself with Mexican cuisine (at restaurants Frontera Grill and Topolobampo) and continues to do so with Xoco. This time around the focus is on Mexican street food.

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The Almendrado chocolate and churros at Xoco. (Credit: Donna M. Airoldi)

I have to admit, I’m not a big fan of Frontera—I’ve enjoyed better food (and prices) in other Chicago Mexican restaurants that were more authentic and didn’t come with a room full of North Side and suburban yuppies—so I wasn’t entirely looking forward to the experience. However, I was pleasantly surprise this time. My two dining companions and I were all impressed, especially with the “Bean-to-Cup Chocolate,” quite possible the best hot chocolate outside of Spain or Mexico. Be sure to get the 3-for-$3 churros—crunchy and cinnamon-coated on the outside, soft on the inside—for dipping. I also was quite taken with the homemade tortilla chips.

The tortas (served after 11 a.m.) come on traditional Mexican breads: bolillo, similar to a baguette, for those from the wood-burning oven; telera, slightly rounder and softer, for the pressed sandwiches. My conchinita pibil—wood-roasted suckling pig with achiete, black beans, pickled onion and habanero—was tender, tasty and, when dipped in the fiery accompanying sauce, tingly. The caldos (soups) sounded divine—shortrib red chile soup with braised tallgrass shortribs, red chile broth, roasted vegetables, epazote, wild arugula and lime, anyone?—but are served after 3 p.m., so we were too early to taste those. The breakfast menu, served until 10:30 a.m., tempted as well.

Xoco is the smallest and most casual of Bayless’ restaurants: no reservations accepted, and you stand in line (plan on at least an hour or longer), then place your order at the register—but not before you’re handed a card, indicating that there is a seat available for you. It’s daunting/annoying at first, but works surprisingly well, provided you don’t mind the long wait.

Average prices: Breakfast, $2 to $7.50; Tortas, $8 to $12; Caldos, $10.50 to $12.50; Salads and Sides, $3 to $8.50; Hot Chocolate, $2.50 to $3.25. Hours: Tue. to Thu., 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Fri., 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sat., 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.; closed Sun. and Mon.

Terzo Piano, 150 E. Monroe St. (third floor of the Modern Wing, Art Institute of Chicago), 312-443-8650, www.terzopianochicago.com

The new Modern Wing at the Art Institute of Chicago was tops on my list for new attractions to see during this visit. Lunch at its new restaurant was an added bonus.

We called for a Monday reservation, but the restaurant was booked full. No surprise since the place is overseen by chef Tony Mantuano, of Spiaggia fame, and open for dinner just one night per week (Thursdays). We tried our luck with a cancellation, showed up at noon, and were seated in the slick, modern (natch), all-white-décor dining room within 15 minutes. Not bad.

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Dietzler Farm stead salad; interior at Terzo Piano. (Credit: Donna M. Airoldi)

The food wasn’t bad either. My friend and I were each in the mood for healthy greens. She tried the Mizuna salad with Miller’s organic chicken breast, avocado, cilantro, lime and ginger cashew dressing. My Dietzler Farm steak salad with arugula, orange, kalamata olives and almonds with a caper-mustard dressing was quite good—and I was thrilled with the hefty amount of meat included, which was cooked perfectly rare. I preferred the steak over the chicken (which was a tad bland), and while chock full of fresh ingredients, we both agreed that each salad suffered from a heavy-handed pour of dressing, and mine was a tad too salty. Lesson learned: ask for the dressing on the side.

The dessert selections were spot on, however—light, with just enough sugar to satisfy a sweet tooth. It was difficult to decide between the local wildflower honey panna cotta with autumn fruit compote and rosemary, and the almond financier with blueberry thyme compote and crème fraîche sorbet. We chose the latter, which came instead with cranberry compote since the kitchen was out of blueberries.

Lunch prices: Appetizers, $7 to 16; Sandwiches/Salads, $15 to $19; Pasta/Entrees, $18 to $25; Desserts, $9. Hours: Lunch, Mon. to Sun., 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Antipasti and Aperitivo, Thu., 3 to 5 p.m.; Dinner (ala carte or $45 3-course prix fixe), Thu. only, 5 to 9 p.m.

Nightwood, 2119 S. Halsted St. (Pilsen neighborhood), 312-526-3385, www.nightwoodrestaurant.com

No fewer than five individuals recommended this place, open since May. And how could they not, when the owners are the husband-and-wife team (Jason Hammel and Amalea Tshilds) behind Lula Café, a fantastic restaurant in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood. It has been getting raves since it opened 10 years ago (and is where, I’m told, local chefs go to eat when they’re not working in their own kitchens).

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Nightwood interior. (Credit: Jason Little Photography)

The menu changes daily as all ingredients are sourced from local farms and markets, for a locavore’s dream meal. One consistency: many dishes are wood-grilled. Those that have impressed local critics in recent months: “anything with chicken liver … potato gnocchi with tomato and corn … spit-roasted pork loin accompanied by roasted apricots and topped with a delicious blend of chopped olives and crème fraîche,” suggested Phil Vettel in the Chicago Tribune. “A brioche bread pudding appetizer was homey and inspired … the woodsy scent of the cheeseburger (worth ordering for the crisp french fries alone) hints at the meat’s earthy flavor,” wrote Time Out Chicago’s Julia Kramer.

Alas, I was unable to make it to this South Side newcomer before my visit ended as I staying on the North Side and was carless. However I have no doubt the trip would have been worth the effort via public transportation, had I had the time, given how much I adore Lula (where I did manage to get in an amazing dinner last week). Readers, next time you’re in Chicago, you’ll just have to try it and let me know how it goes.

Prices: Appetizers, $7 to $10; Entrees, $13 to $26; Desserts, $2.50 to $8; Brunch entrees, $6 to $14. Hours: Dinner, Tue. to Sat., 5:30 to 11 p.m.; Sun. Brunch, 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Closed Mon.

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Oct
23

Singapore has long been known as a great dining destination, and it just keeps getting better. During my third visit to the island city-state two weeks ago, I had the pleasure of enjoying some of the most memorable dining experiences I’ve had in a long time at Michael Han’s FiftyThree and the Tippling Club, which takes gastro-chemistry to a new level.

Today I’m excited to share the news that the Marina Bay Sands in Singapore has signed on six of the world’s best (and most famous) chefs to open restaurants in the new mega-resort, which is slated to open next year. Daniel Boulud, whose New York restaurant Daniel recently earned three Michelin stars, announced his participation yesterday. The remaining five chefs announced today include two more Americans, Mario Batali (New York) and Wolfgang Puck (Los Angeles), along with Santi Santamaria (Barcelona), Guy Savoy (Paris) and Tetsuya Wakuda (Sydney).

It’s a real coup to have three of the six chefs from the United States. As Boulud—who, yes, is from France, but has more than half of his 10 restaurants in the United States—noted during a press luncheon yesterday, “Before, only French chefs had the chance to travel to work outside their country. Today, we’re seeing more U.S. chefs have that opportunity, which means we just keep getting better.” Great news for food lovers the world over.

There were no immediate details on the specs for the six eateries, but Boulud said that his restaurant will be a DB Bistro Modern serving French food, with about 120 seats, including a decent-sized bar, where guests also can order food.

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Photo: Courtesy of Marina Bay Sands Singapore

The Marina Bay Sands project is a massive $5.5 billion development along the Singapore waterfront that will bring the first casino to Singapore. It is being developed by Las Vegas Sands Corp., owner and operator of the Venetian Resort in Las Vegas and other casino resorts around the world. In addition to the six destination restaurants and a casino, the project will include:

  • approximately 15 to 20 more dining establishments
  • a 2,500-room luxury hotel
  • more than 1.3 million square feet of meeting and event space, including what will be Asia’s largest ballroom
  • two theatres—The Lion King will be the resort’s first production, opening in September 2010
  • an ArtScience Museum
  • an indoor ice skating rink
  • more than 300 shops, including a Louis Vuitton island store that will “float” on the water, Hermès, Chanel, Tiffany & Co., and other noted luxury brands
  • and the crowing feature, the Sands SkyPark, a 1,200-foot-long green space situated 650 feet above the ground on top of the project’s three high-rise towers. That’s four football fields in length folks. The park also will offer sweeping view of the Singapore skyline, three swimming pools (including an affinity pool), a restaurant and what will be the longest public observation cantilever in the world—cool and scary all at the same time. In the demo I viewed at the Sands offices in Singapore, from a distance it looks like a cruise ship landed on top of the towers.

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Photo: Courtesy Marina Bay Sands Singapore

According to Las Vegas Sands Corp. president Michael Leven, the target opening date of Phase I of the project is late Q1 2010, but that depends on the delicate engineering process of raising the sections of the SkyPark, which began on Oct. 1, and hopefully will be completed by the end of November.

To learn more about the Marina Bay Sands Singapore project, visit www.marinabaysands.com.

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Oct
21

I’m the first to admit that every time I hear reference to Istanbul, that infectious song gets stuck in my head. But Turkey’s most populous city has left its footprint in the history of world civilization without help from some cheesy song.

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Photo: HBarrison

In 2010, Istanbul will be celebrated as a capital of European culture with yearlong events, the opening of new exhibits and museums, renovations of landmarks and performances by artists from around the globe. In preparation, the city has renovated landmark attractions and even opened new museums. Renovations include the Ataturk Culture Center, the Topkapi Palace museum and the Hagia Sophia, one of the world’s most famous churches and mosques. Istanbul has also opened the Maslak Culture Center as a venue for performing arts and commenced a Frank Gehry-designed opera house.

The events will follow the theme “A City of Four Elements” to help the city organize the yearlong celebration. Jan. 1 through March 20 will represent the “Earth” period, where archaeological excavations will be showcased, exhibits illustrating the city’s historical development will be featured and the influence of Ottoman Istanbul is detailed. March 21 through June 21 will represent “Air” and will feature multicultural and inter-religious events. “Water” will take place from June 22 through Sept. 22 and boast two weeklong presentations of music, art and food from numerous European countries in waterfront districts of Istanbul. Ending the yearlong celebration “Fire,” which takes place Sept. 22 through Dec. 31, will focus on Turkey’s contemporary art scene.

For more information and a detailed calendar of events, visit www.istanbul2010.org or www.goturkey.com.

Plan your 2010 trip to Istanbul on TravelMuse.

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Oct
19

When I first entered the lobby of the new Waldorf Astoria Orlando earlier this month, I immediately noticed the replica of the famous 14-foot clock that sits in the lobby of its New York counterpart and other similar amenities like the Peacock Alley restaurant and bar, Bull & Bear Steakhouse and Sir Harry’s Lounge.

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Photo: Ed Schmidt

What sets the Orlando Waldorf Astoria apart, however, is the property’s decided Florida resort personality. Large open windows in the common areas allow for natural lighting and panoramas of an expansive pool area and lush golf course. The paneled walls and floor in soft creams and the crystal sconces in the lobby add to a fresh, Florida resort feel. The 497 guest rooms and suites are brimming with tropical colors like yellow, tangerine and teal blue accented by Art Deco pieces and rich, dark woods accented by satin nickel.

“To maintain its traditional sense of grandeur and ornament while still filling the space with a fresh, inviting appeal, we incorporated bright colors and rich patterns that give the resort a more vibrant Florida ambiance and a youthful energy,” says Rosie Feinberg, senior designer at Santa Barbara, California-based sfa design.

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Photo: Ed Schmidt

Feinberg says the goal was to infuse the Jazz Age elegance of New York’s Art Deco Waldorf Astoria with the vibrant ambiance of Florida. I think Feinberg’s team achieved their goal. The interior design is fresh and creative and is the antithesis of the thematic resort destination so prevalent in the area.

Surrounded on three sides by Walt Disney World Resort, the Waldorf Astoria Orlando is convenient to everything Disney. The property is part of a 482-acre development that includes the adjacent 1,000-room Hilton Orlando Bonnet Creek.

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Photo: Ed Schmidt

Enhancing the property’s spacious ambiance is a 7,113-yard Rees Jones-designed championship golf course just a few step from the front door and a 125-acre state protected preserve of waterways and wetlands that are home to turkeys, foxes and migratory birds. Other amenities include a formal swimming pool with private cabanas, a 24,000 square-foot Waldorf Astoria spa by Guerlain and 28,000 square feet of meeting space.

To read a review of the new Waldorf Astoria Golf Club course, check out www.thegolftravelguru.blogspot.com

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